IN OUR SHRINKING WORLD of instant communication, globalisation and the
relentless assault of homogenized mass culture, the resilience of the
indigenous people of Oaxaca in conserving their identity and cultural
heritage is remarkable and cause for celebration.

These vibrant communities have endured by successfully passing down
through the generations the ancient techniques of their arts and
crafts. Because they have maintained a traditional pattern of
authority vested in a consensus of the elders - the passers of the
flame of knowledge- important ceremonial activities, beliefs and
practices are continued.

Huazolotitlan (Santa María Huazatlan, which means Place of the Wild
Turkeys, from huexlotl - turkey and titlán - place of, but mostly
just known as Huazolo (Wa-Zo-Lo), is a perfect case in point. And this
month it holds one of its most important fiestas to honor its Patron
Saint, St. Mary of the Ascension.

The town essentially has two parallel authorities: The elected civic
Municipal President (currently a woman incidentally - Isabel Herrera
Molina) and the Council who are responsible for providing basic
services and interacting with state and federal government. But there
is also a ceremonial authority: the Alcalde or "mayor" and the
Mandones, the leaders chosen by an assembly of elders (all former
mandones, alcaldes or mayordomos) to serve for a year.

Their primary responsibility is maintaining the old ways, including
choosing the mayordomos to sponsor the major fiestas, because it is
through the fiestas the traditions are preserved. It is a great
honor, but an awesome responsibility to be chosen mayordomo: he must
arrange the decoration of the church, hire musicians and make sure
that there is enough food for everyone (including visitors) whom
attend.

A successful mayordomo will earn his place as a respected and
prominent figure in his community.The most important element of these
fiestas is dance. Traditional dances are far more than a public
amusement, they have a profoundly magical and religious meaning.
Indeed the dances go on for hours, starting at dawn on the first days
of the fiesta.

(However the dances do include elements of satire and pantomime, in
which mischievous, clown-like characters called tejerones, "badgers",
poke fun at authority figures and make not-so-veiled allusions to
local scandals, gossip and the like, much to the delight of the
audience.)

The Chareos Dance dominates the August FiestaE. This dance represents
a battle between Moors or "Pilates", and the Christians, led by James
the Apostle whose costume incorporates a white hobby horse,
accompanied by a niño, (representing the child Jesus?) and two pages.

The opposing teams of dancers led by their red or white flags (it
can be difficult figuring out which side is which), stage a mock
battle with their colorful feather and ribbon bedecked costumes and
machetes. Drums and flutes are the only instruments that accompany the
dancers.

The peak of activity will be on Aug. 14, with the Calenda
procession, fireworks and the performance of two other dances: The
Turtle Dance, most closely associated with the neighboring
municipality of José Maria Morelos Mixtec, where a huge majority is of
African descent.

The dance ridicules Spanish rule and depicts the abuse and
exploitation of black slaves who were exploited during the Colonial
Period.

Central characters include Don Pancho, a black foreman, a trusted
lackey of the master who ill-treats his fellow slaves and La Minga,
his wife, who is a flighty coquette constantly flirting with the other
men on the hacienda, to Pancho's exasperating rage.

You can also see the Dance of the Little Masks, thought to date back
to the French invasion. After the French defeat, the Indians
celebrated by staging a grotesque caricature of the dandified
foreigners, ridiculing the way they danced, their behavior and
appearance.

This parody, with its little pink-faced masks and conicle beribonned
hats, became a regional tradition and is performed with variations in
many of the indigenous towns on the coast.

The people of Huazolo are warm and friendly to outsiders. They are
proud of their culture and crafts and pleased to share this with
others. Visit Che Luna and his family and the other artisans,
Experience these societies now, because the onslaught of modernity
will inevitably prevail and these treasures might be lost for ever.